Gates for London houses
A gate is the part of the ironwork you actually touch. It gets opened in the rain, pushed by children and leant on by delivery drivers. And it is still expected to latch quietly every time. That is why a gate needs good craft and sound engineering in equal measure.
We design and forge:
- Front gates to gardens and steps, usually set into a run of railings.
- Side gates to passages and garden returns, often with a privacy backing and a proper lock.
- Driveway gates, single or double, swinging or sliding, with or without a motor.
- Estate and carriage gates for larger houses, with heavy posts and decorative overthrows.
We design every gate with you and forge it in our own workshop. Our London team then hangs it. Each one is made for one entrance only.
Forged by hand or welded from parts
A typical welded gate is a box frame with bought-in pressed decorations fixed inside. It is quick to make and cheaper. But it tends to look flat, and the thin pressed parts are often the first to rust.
A hand-forged gate is shaped hot on the anvil. Scrolls are drawn out and rolled from the bar. Collars are wrapped round joints while hot to tie the parts together. Leaves and finials are formed by hand, and even the frame can carry forged detail. Our craftsman has 20 years of hand-forging experience, and he brings it to every gate.
What to look for
- Scroll ends that taper and curl naturally. A cheap scroll is just bent bar cut off square.
- Collars round the joints, not visible welds or cast clips.
- Weight and stiffness. A good forged gate feels solid. It swings true and does not flex at the latch end.
- Fittings that belong. Hinges, latches and bolts should look part of the gate, not stuck on at the end.
A note on materials
Like almost all decorative ironwork made today, our gates are hand-forged from mild steel. True wrought iron has not been made commercially for decades. It is now mainly used for restoration, as reclaimed or re-rolled stock. If you are restoring an original gate on a listed house, we can talk about whether wrought iron makes sense for the repairs.
Designing a gate that works
Posts and footings
A gate is only as good as what it hangs from. A heavy forged gate needs proper posts set on concrete footings, which are the solid bases in the ground. Or it needs a secure fixing into strong brick or stone piers. We check the walls and piers at survey. Where the old ones will not take the weight, we say so and put in new posts.
If a pier is leaning or a garden wall needs rebuilding first, our team can do that building work too. It means one team looks after the whole entrance.
Hinges and swing
The right hinge depends on the weight of the gate and how often it is used. Forged pin hinges suit front gates. Adjustable hinges let us fine-tune the hang. Big driveway gates may need heavy bearing hinges or pivots set in the ground.
We also look at the ground itself. If the path rises across the swing, the gate may need rising hinges, or it may be better hung from the other side.
Gates must never open outwards over a public road or pavement. Street gates open inwards or slide.
Swinging or sliding?
Most London front gates swing. On a short drive or a sloping site, though, a sliding gate can make more sense. A swinging pair needs clear space behind it for the leaves to open. The ground across that arc also needs to be fairly level.
A sliding gate needs a straight run beside the opening to slide into. It runs on a track, or hangs off a frame so it clears the ground. We look at the space, the slope and how you arrive, by car and on foot, before we suggest one or the other. Both can carry the same forged detail. Both can be made ready for a motor.
Latches, bolts and locks
We can fit forged ring latches, thumb latches, drop bolts, gate stops and locks. For extra security we can build a mortice lock or an electric release into the frame, with an intercom or keypad on the post.
Overthrows and arches
An overthrow is a decorative forged arch or panel that spans the tops of the posts. It frames the entrance and adds height without making the gate heavier. It can also hold a lantern bracket, a house name or a number. You see overthrows on many of London’s grander houses and garden squares.
Privacy backing
Side gates and driveway gates can have a solid backing fixed behind the ironwork. That can be plain or perforated steel sheet, painted to match, or timber boards. From the street you still see the forged pattern. Behind it you get privacy and security.
Gates ready for a motor
Many driveway gates have a motor now, or will get one later. If there is any chance of that, it is far better to plan for it at the start.
- A stiffer frame to cope with the push and pull of a motor.
- The right hinges and posts for motors set underground or fixed on arms.
- Ducting, meaning pipes in the ground for power and control cables. These go in before the groundwork is finished.
- Room for safety devices such as photocells, which stop the gate if something is in the way.
We work alongside specialist automation installers. They supply and set up the motors and controls. Powered gates have their own safety standards, and the installer is responsible for testing and signing off the finished powered gate.
Matching gates and railings
Gates are often made together with railings, or to slot into an existing run. We match the bar size, spacing, finials and decorative bands, so the gate looks as if it was always there. Where the railings are original, we record them carefully at survey and copy the details.
Choosing a design
You can start with our craftsman’s design album. It holds hundreds of proven patterns, from Georgian and Regency to Victorian, Edwardian and modern. We adapt the one you choose to your entrance. Or you can have a design drawn just for you. Either way we prepare CAD drawings, which are exact computer drawings to scale. They show the gate, its swing, the hinges, the latches and every fixing. Nothing is forged until you approve them.
Finishes
- Hot-dip galvanising, where the steel is dipped in molten zinc, is the best base for outdoor gates.
- Zinc spraying suits delicate or very large pieces.
- Primer and micaceous iron oxide give a tough, traditional paint system over the zinc.
- Powder coating gives a crisp, even colour on a well prepared base.
- Black paint suits most London streets. Other dark heritage colours often work too.
- Gold leaf can pick out finials, leaves or a house name on an overthrow.
Planning and consent
- Permitted development covers small works you can do without applying. It usually allows gates up to 1 metre next to a road and up to 2 metres elsewhere.
- Conservation areas may have an Article 4 direction that removes those rights.
- Listed buildings usually need listed building consent, which is permission from the council to change a protected building.
- A new driveway entrance normally needs a dropped kerb approved by the council, and it may need planning permission.
Always check with your council. We can supply drawings for any application.
How a job runs
- Visit. We look at the entrance, how you use it and the look you want.
- Survey. We check posts, piers, levels and swing, and record any railings to match.
- Design. We adapt an album pattern or draw a new one, then send CAD drawings for approval.
- Quote. You get a quote for the approved design and finish.
- Forging. We forge the gate in our own workshop and apply the agreed finish.
- Fitting. Our London team hangs and adjusts the gate, fits the latches and touches up on site.
Looking after your gate
- Check the hinges and latch a couple of times a year, and oil the moving parts.
- Keep the closing edge clear of leaves and plants.
- Touch up chips quickly, especially round the latch and the lower rails.
- Wash off dirt and road salt after winter.
- Have a powered gate serviced by your automation installer when they recommend.
Request a quote
Need a single front gate, or a pair of driveway gates with an overthrow? Request a quote through our short online form, or call us to arrange a visit.